What is a Blake Stitched Sole?

Blake Stitched Sole Construction

The Blake Stitch method was invented in 1856 by Lyman Reed Blake. His technique came hand in hand with the industrial revolution, that is because the sole is sewn all the way through to the insole. This couldn't be done without a sewing machine. For the sake of reference, here’s a quick breakdown of the major players in a shoe’s anatomy.

The upper – This is the leather that is seen above the sole when a shoe is worn. While the upper itself can be broken down into many key points (the vamp, the heel, the eyelets, etc.), as a whole it is everything which actually covers the foot when wearing the shoe.

The insole – This is the material on the inside of the shoe with which the foot is in contact when the shoe is being worn.

The outsole – This is the material on the bottom and exterior of the sole and is what comes in contact with the ground while walking.

Now that we know the different parts to a shoe, and that their construction

refers to the method of assembly, we can begin to describe the process

behind a Blake Stitch.

UNDERSTANDING THE CONSTRUCTION

For a Blake Stitch, the upper is wrapped around the insole and attached

between it and the outsole. A single stitch attaches everything together.

THE BENEFITS

Less adhesive and fewer layers are required in the construction and finishing process, resulting in a shoe that's lighter and more durable. Blake Stitched shoes have a slimmer profile and can be more comfortable to walk in as the thinner sole is more flexible underfoot. Plus, the combination of stitching and glue makes them more durable in the long run.

PROTECTING YOUR LEATHER SOLES

DISINFECT AND MOISTURISE

Wearing gloves, wipe the edges and soles with alcohol or a disinfectant pad. Let them dry completely. Once dry, apply a layer of clear polish and leather moisturiser to the soles to protect against drying and cracking.

ROTATE OFTEN

Rotating your footwear gives each pair time to rest and keeps them fresh. It's ideal to insert cedar shoe trees after every wear to absorb any extra moisture and to help maintain the shape of the shoes. Rotating shoes also helps with foot health by giving your feet the chance to enjoy fresh shoes as often as possible.